CLASS CONTENT
PROGRAM #1
Jewelry Repair
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PRECIOUS METAL TERMINOLOGY, TESTING &
IDENTIFICATION Students test and identify platinum, karat of gold, and fineness of silver by using pre-mixed testing solutions. Quality and trademarks, karat and fine system, plumb and non-plumb gold are explained. CLEANING METHODS Students learn how to clean jewelry ultrasonically followed by steam cleaning. They also learn how to prevent and remove black oxidation and tarnish. TORCH SYSTEMS AND FLAME ADJUSTMENTS Types of torches (Hoke, Meco, Little and water torch), tips, gases and their application in gold, platinum and silversmith. Reducing, neutral and oxidizing flames are practiced by the students. SOLDERING TECHNIQUES How to correctly prepare an article for soldering, including two-tone, tri-color and hollow jewelry is explained. The use of fire coat, flux and anti-flux is demonstrated. Students practice the pick-up and tweezer methods of soldering. SAWING - DRILLING & FILING The correct methods for sawing, piercing, drilling, and filing metals are explained and put into practice by students. SOLDERING HEADS & SHANKS Students learn how to solder in a peg head and recess a setting. They solder two heads (settings) into a full shank in preparation for diamond setting. Expansion shanks, ball and spring guards are explained. RING SIZING - PLATINUM, GOLD & SILVER Correct procedural methods for ring sizing, ring stretching, and half shanks are explained and practiced by each student. Instructions for platinum ring sizing, working on old rings with many solder joints are explained. TOOLS, FINDINGS & SUPPLIES The tools and equipment needed for jewelry repair and diamond setting are demonstrated and used by the students. DIAMOND SETTING - RUBY Students set a 1.00 ct. ruby by the undercut method using special burs and setting procedures. Students dress prongs with a barrette needle file. DIAMOND SETTING - CUBIC ZIRCONIA Students set a 1.00 ct. cubic zirconia by undercutting bearings using special burs and setting procedures. Students dress prongs with cup burs. DIAMOND SETTING - PIN POINT Students shellac up an illusion top and set a .06 ct. gemstone. |
POLISHING, BUFFING & LAPPING How to polish, buff and lap using correct compounds is demonstrated and practiced by students. DIAMOND REMOVING & TIGHTENING Student will use various methods in removing and tightening gemstones in a prong, pin point or bezel mounting. PRONG WORK Correct procedures for replacing worn prongs are demonstrated and practiced by the students. RE-TIPPING Correct procedures for re-tipping worn prongs are demonstrated and practiced by the students. KARAT GOLD BEADS Correct procedures for making karat gold beads for ball guards, safety catch and prong build-up. HARDENING & ANNEALING The use of hardening and annealing, its methods and applications are demonstrated and practiced by the students. SWEAT SOLDERING Instructions are given on sweat soldering. Each student practices this procedure. BEZEL FABRICATION Students fabricate a bezel for a coin or cabochon cut stone, burnish to tighten, and solder on a bail. SERPENTINE CHAIN Students practice weaving a serpentine chain together so you can't see the solder joint. Special procedures are used where all the links move. HOLLOW ROPE CHAIN Students practice weaving rope chain together, soldering each link one at a time so that all the links move. Instruction is given on how to repair a hollow rope where you don't have to cut the links. WIRE & TUBE DRAWING How to draw wire to change gauge or shape is demonstrated and practiced by students. Instructions given in making straight and curved tubes. SURFACE TEXTURE The correct techniques are demonstrated in creating the following surface textures: Florentine, Telato, Rigato, Satin, Bark, Hammer, Stone, Glass, "Diamond cuts", and "Laser" finish. HOLLOW JEWELRY Instruction is given in the correct procedures for soldering and removing dents from Hollow Jewelry. ELECTROPLATING Demonstration is given in the correct procedures for rhodium and gold plating. |
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